Monthly Archives: April 2012

Explore Research: Boudicca

– 20.03.12 –

Explore Research: The Noughties.

– 13.03.12 –

 

Explore Research: Eighties.

– 28.02.12 –

The 80s marks the ‘X’ for affordable technology. The shift from political decade to more of a technical transformation. The 1980s started out as a foundation for today’s technology such as cell phones, computers and game consoles.

In the early 80s, history was changed internationally as two royal members tied the knot. Prince Charles and Princess of Wales, Diana. The wedding was held at St Paul’s Cathedral, London. It was known as “the most ultimate fairy tale wedding” with viewers of over 750 million worldwide. The designers of the infamous weddings dress of the late Princess Diana were David and Elizabeth Emanuel. The fabrics used to create the gown, was made from woven silk tafetta, lace and 10,000 pearls. Elizabeth Emanuel had stated “had to be something that was going to go down in history, but also something that Diana loved”. The lace technique on the dress was later used as the same method for Kate Middleton’s wedding dress for when she was wedded with Prince William in 2011.

Princess Diana

Kate Middleton

Technology that changed the world!

The first model DynaTAC 8000x manufactured by Motorola Inc. in 1983 became the first cell phone to be shown to the public for sale at $3,995. The targeted group for the cellphone was businessmen, actors and the upper class people. The basic necessities of the cellphone at the time was just for calls. They offered 30 minutes of talk time and 8 hours standby.

Motorola DynaTAC 8000x

New Romantics became a new phase where a pop culture influenced the music style and fashion of the early 80s. Famous nightclubs at the time such as The Blitz and Billy’s, helped introduced new unusual and flamboyant fashion. Which can be seen as quiet androgenic. Boy George, Duran Duran, Ultravox and Visage had started the new romantic trend strongly knowing many people would aspire in their footsteps.

According to new romantics, the choice of clothing varied from shoulder pads, leggings, jumpsuit, leather pants, aviator jackets, skin tight acid wash jeans, miniskirts and leg warmers. Some of the hairstyles were quiet significant trends of the 80s including the perm, the mullet, Hi top fade and not forgetting the BIG HAIR. Also, Ray Bans became really popular after the infamous film “Top Gun”

Top Gun

Salt n Pepa

Claude Montana

The 80’s  is a decade where fashion, music and technology played a huge role and was a huge influence. The start of becoming advance and theatrical.

References:

Mrs. Knitting. (2010), Wedding Bee: Princess Diana’s Wedding Dress, (http://www.weddingbee.com/2010/06/19/princess-dianas-wedding-dress/)

Fisher Kelly. (2011), Popeater: Fit for a McQueen: Kate Middleton’s stunning Wedding dress, (http://www.popeater.com/2011/04/29/kate-middleton-wedding-dress/)

Wikipedia. (2012), Wikipedia, 1980s, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1980s#Fashion)

Wikipedia. (2012), Wikipedia, New Romanticism, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Romantic)

Wikipedia.(2012), Wikipedia, Motorola DynaTAC, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorola_DynaTAC)

Webdesigner. (2009), Webdesigner depot: The Evolution of Cell Phone Design between 1983-2009, (http://www.webdesignerdepot.com/2009/05/the-evolution-of-cell-phone-design-between-1983-2009/)

Nukleopatra Jonna. (2010), Inspiration: Boy George, (http://jonnahammaren.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/inspiration-boy-george.html)

Kiki. (2010), BHM Fashion Tribute: Salt-N-Pepa, (http://live.drjays.com/index.php/2010/02/24/bhm-fashion-tribute-salt-n-pepa/)

Reznik Victor. (2011), Cool hunting: Claude Montana: Fashion Radical, (http://www.coolhunting.com/style/claude-montana.php)

Explore Research: The Nineteen Seventies.

– 21.02.12 –

The 70’s decade had more of a political input to the world. From 1971, British money changed. From shillings to pound sterling’s. Before 20 shillings was a pound and then the decimilisation  system changed to 100 pennies to a pound. This was an impact to the British public as they were worried. The bigger problem with decimal currency, was that the public thought they were being conned to spend more than they usually would have. This showed that they weren’t familiar with the new system at the time. That may have been possible as shopkeepers could have taken advantage. But, inflation was also high at the time – so it could be debatable.

Decimalisation.

Margaret Thatcher came into power in 1979 – First and only UK female prime minister to date.  Also known as the ‘The Iron Lady’.

Skinheads:

During the recession in 1970, many working class people had become a part of a new cult; skinheads. Skinheads were known as working class youths that acted out rebelliously against the recession. The style they had chosen were very masculine and Western Australian style as their was large scale of British migration towards Western Australia.

The fashion statement of the skinheads was impacted largely by manual working uniform. For example, Doc Martins, army boots, industrial boots, braces, military hair cuts.

The skinheads were also seen as violent threatening gangs who were very narrow minded about certain race and cultures i.e Pakistani’s and Indians were classed as “Paki”, a derogatory term used to undermine. They were known to start gang violence against pretty much anyone who came in their way or didn’t fit with their beliefs and customs.

A chant about “Pakis” was very commonly used amongst the skinheads towards them.

“Original British Style

skinhead say paki them can’t reggae
skinhead say paki them can’t jeggae

skinhead say paki no spend money
skinhead say paki no live no way

skinhead a bash them
skinhead a bash them
skinhead a bash them

skinhead say paki no live no way
skinhead say paki no have no woman

Music

The skinhead subculture was heavily influenced with the genres of soul, ska, rocksteady and early reggae. There was also a mixture of punk rock, rock and disco.

Jimi Hendrix

The Pioneers.

Peace. – Sajj P.

References:


Retrowow. (1999), Decimalisation – 1971, (http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_britain/new_money/decimalisation.html)

Laningham Van. (1996), The British Monetary System before Decimalization, (http://www.pauahtun.org/Calendar/money.html)

The Strange Brew Podcast. (2009), Credit Crunch – The Strange Brew Podcast no.2, (http://thestrangebrew.co.uk/http:/thestrangebrew.co.uk/credit-crunch-the-strange-brew-podcast-no-2)

Anonymous. (2010), (http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=subcultures+of+the+70s&source=web&cd=10&ved=0CGYQFjAJ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fopensociologyuk.wikispaces.com%2Ffile%2Fview%2FYouth%2Band%2BCulture%2Brevision%2Bnotes&ei=Ab6VT73ZI-rJ0QWypYXcAQ&usg=AFQjCNHHwWgS96Zn76DxP4ppd-6wHnVaKA)

Flickr. (2008), Original British Style, (http://www.flickr.com/photos/makeitaggro/3133500456/)

Principal Pagina. (2010), Skinhead people – Skinheads, (http://skinheadspeople.blogspot.co.uk/)

Coulson Jez. (2009), British Facism Rears It’s Ugly Head: BNP March, (http://www.jezblog.com/index.php?showimage=970)

Roman Ed. (2011), Jimi Hendrix, (http://www.edroman.com/guitars/mosrite/hendrix.htm)

The Pioneers. (2001), The Pioneers, (http://rateyourmusic.com/artist/the_pioneers)

Explore Research: The Swinging Sixties.

– 07.02.12 –

The swinging sixties was known as ‘the cultural decade’. The diversity, the hope, the music, conflicts, the dancing were all taken place from the 60’s. It was a decade of change. Not only the fashion changed, but also global events around the world.

Elvis Presley 'It's Now or Never' - which was the number one for 8 weeks in the chart in 1960.

The end of World War II began a war of its own, baby boom.  The baby boom risen especially in the UK from 1960 and its peak at 1964. World War II was a horrible time for the world, the world was at peace in 1945. People were united with their family, friends and lovers, and relationships were celebrated which was delayed because of the war. It was a high result of births, hence why the term is called the ‘baby boom’. In America, around 75 million babies were born between 1960 and 1964. In Britain, the birth rates were peaked at 900,000.

It was a huge impact to Britain as new schools were built by the government, they also supplied free milk to the children at school and child benefits for the baby boom generation. Rock and Roll singer Sir Mick Jagger and Keith Richards were one of the boomers. Some of the boomers were in power such as Bill Clinton and George W Bush.

On the 13th of August, 1961. People of Berlin discovered that their city has been divided in two with a barbed wire and a block wall. The wall became to be known as the cold war. It became a miserable life as families were parted, people lost their livelihood and weren’t able to pass to either side of the wall. The only people that were granted permission to cross the famous Charlie checkpoint were military patrols and tourists. Up to 200 people or more were killed for attempting to cross the border and more than thousands of people were arrested to try to escape to the west.

The Berlin wall was made stronger and tougher over the years. By the late 80s the deadly wall crumbled. And on 9th of November 1989, the partition between the East and the West was over and now known  as history.

The style, the music and the lifestyles of The Beatles were a huge impact to the swinging sixties. They were the worlds famous boy band. Originally known as the Quarrymen but then changed their band name to The Beatles. They were signed with Parlophone records and their powerful songwriting and voices helped them hit the top charts!  The Beatles were upbeat, alive and strong as it shook the world after the sad memory of the world war.

It wouldn’t be a boy band if everything ran smoothly. There were plenty of conflicts and hidden stories which was infatuated by the media. Brian Epstein, the manager of the biggest and successful boy band committed suicide at the peak of his career. It still remains a mystery to why he did it.

My favourite song from The Beatles would be ‘Hey Jude’. I have a fond memory in primary school as we were learnt the song off by heart and always puts a smile to my face.

The Beatles

Music was a heavy influence in the 60s as it brought out the personalities in people. Ska music was one of the genres that had an effect on the people. Ska music is originated from Jamaica in the late 50s, early 60s. Ska music had a combination of Caribbean mento, calypso, with American Jazz, Rhythm and blues. Ska music was a strong influence to the British mods and was popular with the skinheads too. Rude boy music and fashion, as well as the gang mentality, became a strong influence to the skinheads and mods.

Mods is short for modernists, There were new stuff happening due to the post war. Music, film and fashion. They were best dressed with suave and style. Mohair suits, smart shoes, parkas and hair. There were categories of being a mod.

The best dressed were known as ‘faces’.

And

Lesser individuals were known as ‘numbers’ or ‘tickets’.

Mods invested on vespas, lambretta’s, Brutus shirts, Parkas. Labels such as Fred Perry and Ben Sherman. Often from less afluent urban areas. Whereas, Rockers were scruffy and wore leather jackets and jeans use for transportation were motorcycles which was known as ‘cafe racers’. The rockers who rode them were known as ‘tone-up boys’.

Mod and Rockers were two very different tribes, always was in conflict with each other and would have stand offs to see who has the upper hand and higher status. Hundreds of people were in fights because of the Mod VS Rockers and with the police  in locations such as Brighton, Bournemouth, Margate and Clacton.

Rockers.

Rockers.

Mods.

This is me during a photoshoot, which was taken place in Holland Park and this was one of the look that the photographer wanted; Mod VS Rockers by combining the two.

Here is a presentation based on the 60's which was done with other peers as a group study.

Overall, the sixties was a fascinating decade. a decade full of vibrancy, colour and style. It helped people be themselves and embrace many subcultures at the time.

Peace. – Sajj P.

References:


Seager Ashley. (2009), The Guardian: Back to 1960 – deflation returns to Britain, (http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/gallery/2009/apr/21/deflation-inflation)

UK Population Pyramids. (2004), Wikipedia: Post-World War II baby boom – In the United Kingdom, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Post%E2%80%93World_War_II_baby_boom#cite_note-14)

Berliner Mauer. (2009), Welcome to the Berlin Wall – A love story, (http://www.berlinermauer.se/)

BBC. (2005), BBC- GCSE Bitesize: The Berlin wall as a symbol, (http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/history/mwh/ir2/berlinwallrev2.shtml)

Yesterday. (2009), 60s Season: The Berlin Wall, (http://uktv.co.uk/yesterday/item/aid/571194)

Lastfm. (2008), Mick Jagger – Picture, (http://www.last.fm/music/Mick+Jagger/+images/349842)

Oliatoth. (2008), Deviant art, Ska Music, (http://oliatoth.deviantart.com/art/Ska-Music-98587082)

Elizabeth Michelle. (2011), The Mods Vs The Rockers, (http://60smodfox.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/mods-vs-rockers.html)

Explore Research: The Vexed Story.

– 31.02.12 –


– “Creating debate.”

In the early to mid 90’s, two designers Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter decided to form their own label. Hunter had a clothing label in recycled clothing and Thorpe was working for a record label, dealing with many types of sportswear.They did not come from a fashion background as Thorpe was a former science student and Hunters background was in graphics.

From there, the designers worked on English street environment. The designers wanted to move away from the American style and produce a London streetwear and combine the practical needs and political concerns of urban generation. It is a mixture of form and function. They considered carefully about personal safety and protection against air pollution. But also to see more of their unusual ideas to influence their designs, such as civil liberties, street protests and CCTV surveillance.

Vexed Generation.

The fabrics that were used for garments such as the Vexed Parkas were space age materials originally designed by NASA.

Inspiration have been influenced by the natural and built environment around the designers. The fabric that was used for the Parkas was essential to the design and ability to the product.Ballistic nylon [ a high tenacity nylon 66 ] was treated with a fluorocarbon coating and neoprene lamination on the inside of the fabric. The finished garment is scuff proof, slash resistant, waterproof and fireproof.  Ballistic nylon is originally used for protective military flak jackets.

Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter

Vexed Generation shows that the garments have more than one use and it’s not just a fashion piece. It has more than one meaning and it fits in perfectly to the London urban life. Not only you can feel good about yourself, you can also feel safe from it too.

They have done multiple of collaborations with other brands and installations such as, Puma, Louis Vuitton and Nokia.

I am lucky to say that Joe Hunter [ Vexed Generation ] is one of my tutors at University of East London.

Vexed Generation is based in:

3 Berwick Street,

London,

W1F 0RE

020 7287 6224 ‎

Peace. – Sajj P.

References:

Anderson James. (2012) Velour Magazine Online: Labels we have loved #1: Vexed Generation, (http://www.velourmagazine.com/fashion/labels-we-have-loved-1-vexed-generation/)

Marta Postigo. (2000) Plasma Studio: Publications: Interview with Vexed Generation Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter, (http://www.plasmastudio.com/publications/vexedinterview2.htm)

Mutz Michael. (1999) Audi magazine: Scientific spinning, (http://www.periskop.cz/cz/clanky/vedecka-pradelna/)

Real Design. (2010) Channel 4: Real Design, (http://www.channel4.com/learning/microsites/R/realdesign/index_alt.html)

Seenmy. (2007) Topic: Vexed Generation Final Sale, (http://www.crookedtongues.com/forum/threads/vexed-generation-final-sale/id/22682/)

Wyborcza Gazeta, Telewijza Polska S.A.,AMS. (2001) Fabric of fashion: British fashion objects, installation, photography; Vexed Generation – Adam Thorpe and Joe Junter, (http://csw.art.pl/new/2001/fabric_e.html)